Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Semana 6


Martes el 23 de agosto – día 37
Tuesday was my first castellano class with my program.  I was super excited, as I got my first choice: Castellano Avanzado y Cultura Argentina: Focalizado en Música Popular Urbana en Argentina.  I got up at 8 AM, had some breakfast, and then took the bus to class.  I arrived 35 minutes early (comoviajo.com grossly overestimated the travel time) so I walked around the neighborhood.  The class is in Recoleta, which is an absolutely gorgeous area, and our class is at a museum which used to be a house.



My professor Darío (who was my professor for my taller de gramática) introduced himself and have a description of the course.  Each class is three hours long, with about an hour dedicated to each of its three components.  1. Gramática, 2.  Discussion of literature, we have to read 4 books over the course of the semester, right now we’re reading Blanco nocturna, 3. Discussion of music.  We have 2 GB worth of music and their lyrics to listen during the semester.  They’re separated by decade (from the 1960s to 2000s) and we’ll discuss them with reference to culture at the time.  The class seems like it’s going to be a lot of fun, and I’m excited to hear some Argentine music since the only music I’ve heard so far has been from America.

After class I decided to walk home because it was a lot closer than I originally thought.  It took about 30  minutes and it was a really nice area, so I think I’ll walk to this class more often.  When I got home I made some lunch and then headed out to my UBA class. 

I opted to take the colectivo instead of the subte for a change of scenery.  My colectivo broke down in the middle of the street halfway there.  I was not happy.  When another bus was finally able to get through I got on and rode the rest of the way to UBA.  Lucky for me I’m always early to everything here, so I arrived to class with 5 minutes to spare and the professor was 10 minutes late.

I would like to take this time to more thoroughly explain Universidad de Buenos Aires - Filosofia y Letras to all of you back home.  First, walking up to UBA you see a building with a dilapidated exterior, dirty Argentine flags, and graffiti.  To put it bluntly the building resembles a crack house.  To your side there are tons of street vendors with blankets lining the sidewalks, trying to sell their various wares.  Mates, wallets, book bags, t-shirts, jewelry, socks, hats, scarves, pretty much anything imaginable, you can find at a street vendor.  Upon entering the large green doors, which are propped open approximately, 15 people try to hand you pieces of paper with information about a political party, movement, or random bar or restaurant.  Enter farther into the building and you’ll encounter stands upon stand of people selling choripan, sopa, water for mate, beverages and other edible goods.  There are also individuals selling stuffed bread or churros out of baskets.  Another thing you’re likely to notice is the complete lack of cleanliness (Nanny, you would have a heart attack and/or stroke if you saw this building).  There are tattered political posters lining the walls, and a general feeling of dirt and grim everywhere.  The bathrooms don’t have toilet paper or soap (always have tissues and germ-x in your bag), and there are random pigeons roaming the hallways.  On any given walk to class you will encounter no less than 2 groups of lighting up cigs in the hallway.  Once you arrive at your designated class room you may find there aren’t enough seats, thus forcing you to sit on the floor.  If you’re lucky enough to have a seat chances are the attached desk was long ago broken off never to be seen again (learn to write on your lap).  When the professor arrives (usually at least 10 minutes late) they most likely won’t be able to show their powerpoint presentation as the projector and stand were stolen at some point (we received an email about how the school received 4 bomb threats between the 12th and 18th, and a lot of property was stolen during the evacuation) therefore professors have to reserve one of the few remaining projectors before class.  Throughout the course of your 2-4 hour class it is highly likely there will be at least one interruption by a group of students trying to spread word of their cause or looking for signatures for a petition.

Despite all – or maybe because of - these seemingly terrible things UBA is actually a very interesting place.  First, all students attend classes completely free of charge (aside from buying texts, which are photocopies rather than actual books).  UBA is completely funded by the state (which may explain the lacking state of the building).  It is also a very active and politically charged campus.  While it is a completely foreign concept to me, as students attend school for free, there are constantly petitions circulating asking for more from UBA.  Whether it be $5 peso platos del día (which would be the equivalent of getting a meal at bullet for $1.25), more night classes (for students who work during the day) or bettering the conditions of the school (which I understand).  It’s been hard for me to grasp the view of education here (at least at UBA).  Since students don’t pay to attend classes it takes may of them years and years to finish a degree.  For instance, one of the girls I’m working with on my project has been going to school for 4ish years but is really only about 2 years into her course work.  She only takes 2 classes per semester as she works full time.  There are also many many older students.  I get a sense that often times people are taking classes more for their enjoyment, or because it’s what they actually want to study, whereas in the US there’s more pressure to do something that will make us “successful,” or that will earn us the most money.  While it’s kind of a refreshing attitude to have, it’s definitely a foreign concept.

It is most certainly a complete 180 from Gettysburg as far as the physical atmosphere is concerned.  However, what UBA lacks in esthetic appeal it makes up for in classes.  I was surprised by how in depth and intellectual the classes seem to be in spite of the lacking building.  The professors are also very impressive, having written multiple books, serving as advisors to La Presidenta, working as the top professionals in their field etc.

At first I was completely against taking classes at UBA because it was so different, now I’m starting to see the value of getting such a different experience.  

After class I took the subte home and did a little reading before dinner.  We had some vegetable rice again, and then Clarisa and I had postre de vigilante and some tea while watching “Salven el millón” (exact same show as million dollar money drop, but it Spanish).   When the show was over (the family lost) I went upstairs to shower and get ready for bed.

Miercoles el 24 de agosto
¡¡¡¡¡FELIZ CUMPLEAÑOS A JARED!!!!! 
Ain't he purty???
 If you come down to Buenos Aires I’ll buy you a nice dinner at the parilla (you’ll get the best steak of your life) and a Quilmes.

Today I got up at 9AM, had some breakfast and then headed to yoga.  It was a different kind of yoga, and with a different instructor than my previous class, but it was fun.

I headed back home, got ready for class, packed my lunch, and took el colectivo to UCA.  Our assignment for the week was sacar fotos en noche sin flash (take photos at night without flash).  Here are the pictures I presented to the class:















 Our assignment for next week is to do auto retratos (self-portraits).  I’m not looking forward to this assignment, maybe I’ll share the pictures with you next week, depending on if I like them or not.  In preparation for this assignment we watched a bunch of videos about artists who do self-portraits.  I thought most of them were crazy, or their story was very depressing.  We watched one about Francesca Woodward, who took a ton of self-portraits, and ended up killing herself at the age of 22.  The other one that stuck out in my mind was this French woman known as Orlan who went through an artistic phase in which she got plastic surgery, stayed awake for all of it, and filmed it.  Ew.  Maybe this is just me being closed minded, but I wouldn’t consider that art, I’d call it crazy and attention seeking.

After class I took the colectivo home and did some work para mi clase de castellano.  Clarisa called me down for dinner (ravioli).  She also told me they'll most likely be cutting our electricity at 8 AM tomorrow to do some maitenance so I need to shower and charge anything I need charged tonight... welcome to Argentina.  During dinner we watched "Salven el millón" again, except this time I knew 3 answers!  The first question was "how many stripes are there on the American flag,"options: 12, 13, 14, 15, the second was "what is the best selling sound track of all time according to <insert name of some American music institute I can't remember>" options:  The Bodyguard, Grease, The Wall, Woodstock.  The third was "what is Venus standing on in The Birth of Venus"  options:  a crowd of angels, a seashell, a marble alter (The correct answers for you novices out there were: 13, The Bodyguard, and a seashell).

Anyway, I'm off to shower, read some more, and go to bed.

Un beso,
Taylor

Random Photo:
Pigeons everywhere!

Monday, August 22, 2011

TANGO


Jueves el 18 de agosto – día 32
I have officially completed my first month here in Buenos Aires and I can’t believe it!  I feel like I just got off the plane two days ago.  While I wouldn’t say I’m completely used to everything I have definitely made a lot of progress.  I’m no longer petrified of the public transportation systems here, and I have a basic idea of where I am most of the time (although I think this has  more to do with my lacking a sense of direction than this being a new city).  I’ve also gotten used to the prices here, and don’t always have to divide everything by 4 to decide if it’s a good deal or not.  It’s crazy to think I only have 4 more months here, if they go by as fast as the first I’ll be back in Gettysburg next week.

Today I got up at 9 and had some cereal for breakfast, then I did some reading and random things online.  I got an email from UBA saying my psicolinguistica class for tonight was canceled because the professor is sick, so I only had one class today.  I also had to register for my castellano class with IFSA.  We had to pick 3 options, but only 2 didn’t have conflicts with my current schedule so I emailed the program, and hopefully I get placed in one of the classes I can take, otherwise I don’t know what I’m going to do.  

At noon I tried to sign up to go to the theater with IFSA but there were only 5 spots, and they were all full when I tried.

I went downstairs to pack my lunch (peanut butter and banana) and then took the subte to my clase: Literatura Argentina en USAL.  I really like the class, and we read classic Argentine literature, the stuff students here read in high school.  The class also gives historical context to the stories so we also learn about the history of Argentina along with the literature.

While I didn’t have piscolinguística tonight I had to go to UBA to buy the readings, which was annoying.  As I was leaving the building after I bought the things I needed the fire alarm was going off, when I got home I had an email saying: El Departamento de Letras informa que la facultad está siendo evacuada por haber recibido, nuevamente, una amenaza de bomba (the building was evacuated because they received a bomb threat).  While that’s pretty scary I couldn’t help but think back to 9th grade when we had bomb threats every week for about a month… good old GAHS!

Clarisa called me down for dinner, which was a really delicious concoction.  Basically it was a bed of saffron rice with zucchini, peppers, onions, and spices on top, and then she scrambled an egg and poured it over top, and cooked it just until the egg was set.  The combination of the flavors was amazing!   Then after dinner we had postre de vigilante.  Clarisa told me since I’ve been here she’s remembered how good sweets are, I tried to explain to her the concept of having a “sweet tooth” but I don’t think she quite understood the concept as it doesn’t translate to Spanish.

After we finished eating I went up stairs to shower.  I did some reading (we’re starting El matadero in my literature class) and then went to bed.

Viernes el 19 de agosto
Today I had to get up at 8:00 to go to Migraciones to start the process of obtaining residencia en Argentina.  I had a quick bowl of cereal, packed my lunch, then headed out to meet Julie.  We took the subte and then walked a few blocks to micgraciones. 
Gorgeous church close by

Graffiti that was everywhere in the area

We had to wait outside in the cold (I didn’t realize how cold it would be here and I have to say I’m not a fan) for about 20 minutes before we could go in.  Once we got into the office everything was really simple, we checked in, paid our $55 pesos, then waited about 10 minutes to be called to an individual meeting.  We had to fill out information from our passports and our parents’ names and get our fingerprints taken with this cool digital fingerprint taker.  

When I was finished I walked to IFSA to fill out my registration form for my UCA class, ate my lunch then took the subte to my meeting about doing biochem research at la Facultad de Medicina de la UBA.  The people there seemed nice and I’m sure I’ll learn a lot considering I know absolutely nothing about biology, so I think I’m going to give it a try.

It was a nice day out (but a little chilly) so I decided to walk home (about 25 blocks).  Here's some sights I saw on the way: 





"No hay sueños sin esperanzas"

Unfortunately for me it started raining when I was about 5 blocks away and my umbrella did little to help me as the wind was blowing really hard.  I really need to find raincoat here but clothing is kind of ridiculously priced.  When I got home I took a shower and changed into some dry clothes then did some reading for class.  When there was a temporary lull in the rain I took my clothes to the lavadero and then came back home.

Clarisa went away to visit a friend for the long weekend (Monday is a holiday to celebrate San Martín) so I was on my own for dinner.  She left me some leftovers from the delicious zucchini and rice dish so I heated that up and watched the news while I ate.

Since it was windy, raining off and on, and near freezing I decided to stay in and do some work instead of going out, so I made some tea, turned the little heater in my room on high and read.

Sabado el 20 de agosto
Today I got up around 9:30 and made myself some breakfast (vanilla yogurt with an orange and peanut butter toast).  I picked up my laundry, straightened up my room and then  went to Julie’s house at 12 to  meet her for yoga, but when I got to her house I realized I didn’t have any minutes left on my phone, so I had to go home and put more money on.  We went to the yoga studio which is only 4ish blocks from my house, it was a good class and I bought an 8 class card.

I headed home and made myself some lunch.  I had bought some packets of soup at DISCO so I had spinach-cream soup (to which I added some fresh steamed spinach because the soup was kind of lacking) and a toasted cheese and tomato sandwich.  Then I headed upstairs to shower and get ready.

From August 16-30th Buenos Aires hosts TANGO Festival y Mundial, which was declared a world heritage site by UNESCO.  Basically there are a ton of various conciertos, esectáculs de danza, radio en vivo, clases de baile, cines codumentales, conferencias, ferias de productos y el mundial de baile (concerts, dance shows, radio broadcasts, dance classes, documentaries, product fairs, and the dance world cup) all with free admission (some of the events require you to go early in the morning to get tickets for things later in the night, and for others you have to arrive very early to get in).  


I met Julie and Andy and we took the colectivo to el centro de exexposiciones for a beginner’s dance lesson.  Unfortunately for us we got there 20 minutes early and the class was already full.  We decided to wait and take the next class which started in an hour, so we walked around, looked at some of the products, watched some tango dancers, and a concert (Bertero Big Band Tango).   







We got in line 40 minutes before the class started and in 10 minutes the line for classes was huge.  Since we were the second group in line we got wristbands and were told to come back at 6 for our lesson.




I was paired up with a woman from Argentina who told me she enjoyed dancing.  It was a good experience for me because she knew what she was doing, I did feel a little bad though because I wasn’t very good.   In the beginning we would take turns leading (which is usually the man’s job) until she realized I was absolutely terrible at leading (I don’t understand how guys do it, it’s so hard).  We only learned the basics, but it was fun.  I’d like to do it again sometime, but with someone I know so I don’t feel bad for being bad.  



Our instructor and his daughter
Our instructors


After our lesson we ran into some people from our program who were staying for a concert that started in an hour.  Andy, Julie, and I decided to go take some pictures of the floraleis at night (it’s only about 2 blocks from el centro de exposiciones).  


When we got back to el centro Andy and Julie decided to go for dinner so I met up with Melissa to watch La Orquesta de Leopoldo Federico.  The concert was absolutely AMAZING!  The music was wonderful and the entire center had buena honda (basically good vibes).  There was a even a couple who spontaneously started Tango dancing right next to me.  












Carlos Gardel's suit
Carlos Gardel







Spontaneous tangoers
 


Tango dancing lights on the ground
 Melissa and I met up with Shawn (who knows how to ballroom dance and was tango dancing with an adorable old man) and Julia to get dinner.  We went to Porte Zuelo, which is a restaurant/bar.  When we sat down a waiter gave us a free margarita (apparently he made it by mistake) so that was a nice perk.  I got a delicious sesame chicken salad and a glass of wine.
Shawn and her little old man
Porte Zuelo

Margarita gratis!

Ensalada de pollo sesameo

Then we ordered two desserts to share and I got a banana daiquiri (which was almost too strong to drink).
When we finished up Julia and I headed to bus stop, Shawn got a taxi, and Melissa headed home.  I got home, got ready for bed, and crashed.
Panqueques de dulce de leche
Comienzo el lunes (I'll start Monday)


Daiquiri de banana

Me, Melissa, Julia

Melissa, Julia, Shawn



Domingo el 21 de agosto
This morning the cat woke up me up about 3 times by scratching at my door with a lot of enthusiasm.  I was not happy.  I ended up getting up around 10:30.  I had some yogurt and a banana for breakfast then did a lot of nothing.  I made lunch and then took the bus to Melissa’s house.
We went to a dance show featuring Carlos Copello (a big name in tango, or at least that’s what my program tells me).  The show was absolutely incredible!  The music was amazing and the dancing was AWESOME! 









This kid was roughly 14... he was awesome














After the show I took the colectivo home and did some reading before dinner (leftovers).  I was home alone since Clarisa was still at her friend's house and I have no idea where Lu was so I read some more and then watched some TV (Aladdin in Spanish) before going to bed.

Lunes el 22 de Agosto
Today is a feriado (holiday) para José de San Martín (actually it was Wednesday but Argentine's move holidays to Fridays or Mondays so there is a 3 day weekend), who was a military hero in Argentina.  I didn't do much today other than a lot of reading for my classes.  When I got up I had some breakfast then read.  Then I made myself some lunch and watched 13 going on 30 (in Spanish).  Then I read some more.

I did, however, venture to DISCO to buy some things for my lunch, when I chanced upon a delicious treat, oreos filled with dulce de leche and banana cream.  They were quite tasty (especially with extra dulce de leche)!


After I came home and tried my oreos I read some more (I'm finally finished with everything due this!). I showered and then made myself some pasta for dinner.  Clarisa got home at around 10 and she told me really enjoyed her trip.

I'm off to bed now.

Un beso,
Taylor

Random Photo:
Who ya gonna call?